SKETCHES OF NEW YORK
Essay
April, 1963
I promised everyone that I was really going
to tell them about my trip to New York, and, as if
it were really important and interesting, I
am finally now about to get around. So this will
try to answer your questions.
HOW WAS NEW YORK?
New York doesn't exist. To answer the question
it was there, just the same as it always was
but it still doesn't exist. It was bigger, perhaps
bigger buildings, more people, more going on more
often perhaps, but my main impression was that it was
no different intrinsically from any other large city
I've seen, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Detroit, Reno
Las Vegas.
I left suddenly, as you know, on three hours
notice, and we drove to Detroit, then to Toronto
and took a bus from Toronto to New York.
I saw quite a bit while I was there, more I think
than I've ever seen of San Francisco, perhaps not
as much as I once knew of Reno, but I really saw
very little of New York. I seemed always busy
but I was very slothful and spent only a few hours
each day if any actually out in New York. I stayed
up late, but saw little of the night life; I spent
money, but not on the shows, places to see, or the
nightclubs. I was certainly not a tourist, and
fel t pretty much as much of. a sightseer as I am
here. All of which adds up'to, perhaps I just
didn't get the "feel" of New York. But I am convinced
now that New York, the New York in the minds
of New Yorkers, the myth in the minds of those who
haven't. been there, doesn't exist.
WHAT DID I SEE?
Mostly, I guess I saw a few people; Ruth Baron
who has been a friend for several years, who
was deep in the throes of finals at Columbia
on quantum mechanics and graduate organic chemistry;
Joan Sekler who was here last summer, who was
busy writing a paper which was weeks overdue, who
planned a large itinerary for me, and who showed me
most of the things I saw; Sandy Brown, who was
also in finals, but quite lighthearted about them
almost purposeless about them, but her usual
exuberant, persistent self, maybe happy a little
deeper than we usually saw her; Ethel Lifschitz
who was also here last summer at Stebbins, but I
guess was outside the lives I share with most of you;
Neal Felsen and a few others who had been here last
summer. I spent hours arguing with Joan about
socialism and capitalism, and time with Ruth and
Sandy discussing our mutual friends.
I saw many buildings, and I would' ask Joan
"What is that building?" and she would say
"Some office building" and they really did all
look alike. I saw several churches which were
spectacular: the Riverside Cathedral, St. Thomas'
St. Patrick's, and St. John the Divine's, with all
their unbelievable stained glass windows and
sculptured walls; at the Riverside I went up into
the carillon tower and saw the immense bells, the
largest tuned bell in the world, to the second A
below middle C, and the smallest, which I could hold
in my hand, but I never did get to hear a concert on
them. I spent several hours working on my musical
compositions (what did I go to New York to do that
for, you ask? why not). I spent part of each of
four days in the Museum of Natural History which
was one of the best things I saw in New York. It
took me all that time to get through all four
floors, and I never did get to the mineral exhibits.
I liked best the animal scenes from Africa and
North America, which were like scenes from real
life; too much of the Museum is very scientific
labelled un-alive mounted racks and shelves. But
it would take a very long time to see a meaningful
amount of the Museum; here I was just a tourist
and only glanced at most of it. Anyway I can't
just look at things for very long, I want to be
doing something, or probing further. I passed
through the New York Public Library, which was
large but unfriendly, Grant's Tomb, where I registered
a note of protest at such pompous waste, and
the Staten Island Ferry, from which I couldn't see
the skyline of New York because it was foggy that
night. I found enough inspiration in the Whitney
Museum of Modern Art to join as a non-resident
member, and to wish to return to my art work with
Professor Schaefer-Simmern. I went with Sandy to see
the Cloisters, which are part of the Museum, but
was disappointed to find it a dead cloister, with
just more mounted exhibits and throngs of guards
watching you. The building was beautiful and
imposing, and the tapestries were breathtaking, but
much of the exhibit has been imported, and is not
indigenous, furthering the disappointment I felt.
Nearby we accidentally wandered into a convent
school which had a beautiful little chapel and a
class of dancers which we watched.
Through all these things I was somewhat of a
tourist, but I don't think I spent more than
two hours a day on any of them. Perhaps the
most enjoyable was the subway system; I quickly
learned the basics about IRT, BMT, IND, and found
myself helping people'to find which train and where.
It is like an underground city: the large stations
Times Square, Grand Central, Columbus Circle. And
I enjoyed traipsing through the corridors changing
trains, and -- well it's hard to say what I liked
about it; I rode during rush hour, standing with
no danger of falling because you were hemmed in by
people; I rode at trick lock in the monnink (3 a.m.)
when there were still masses of people; the middle cars
are always fullest; and it is really impressive
how easy it is to get anywhere in New York. There
were mosaics for the station names and numbers, a
degree of artistic application never found in modern
structures. I walked around some downtown;
herds of people, sky invisible, large stores, small
stores, but basically it felt the same as in San
Francisco. Then we went one night to a tiny coffee
shop called the "Feenjon" in Greenwich Village
where they were playing chess and folk music and we
had a loud philosophical conversation about God and
socialism and folk dancing.
But I didn't see Sandy very much, I only saw
Ethel once, I didn't see Findlay Cockrell at
all, nor my great-aunt in Boston, nor Sy Benton
at St. John's College in Annapolis. I didn't
see the Empire State Building, the Times Building
with its lights giving the news, Rockefeller Center
Carnegie Hall, Lincoln Center, the Statue of Liberty
the Guggenheim Museum (except from the outside)
nor the Great White Way or is it the Gay White Way?
I didn't see more than part of the surface of the
off-hours of Greenwich Village, and most of all I
didn't see any of Central Park -- it was too cold.
DID I FOLK DANCE?
How could I not? I didn't go to Michael Herman's
Folk Dance House nor any other "folk dance" class
but I went to Sonny Newman's Balkan group five times
Columbia University, and Yale University, and
Fred Berk's Israeli class for the last half-hour
which was free. I taught an institute at Sonny's
(Tresenica, Bavno, Ravno, Devojce Devojce, Oj Rasticu,
Red Boots, and Kamarinskaja) and did a little teaching
at Yale and Columbia. After one of Sonny's classes
we went to Jimmie's, a little Greek restaurant where
we played the juke-box and danced and I think I liked
that best of all in New York -- it was casual. They do
many dances which we don't do, and we do many dances
which they don't do, and there are differences
in dance pattern and steps, to say nothing of
style. Most of the girls at Sonny's had had ballet
which showed; not one dancer had any of what we out
here think of as Jugoslavijan style (and don't call me
a pot talking about a kettle), Serbian and Croatian
dances being done almost frantically. I suppose I
tolerate such things on Fridays because some of you
do dance ethnically, and if the others do not copy
by watching I can't make you not dance the way you want.
Ruth and Nannette from Los Angeles were the best Balkan
dancers there, but they learned here. And so many kolos
were done with simply wrong steps! and they are our
most authentic dances. But I wore my belt proudly and
danced and watched, and Sonny asked me several times
to lead U Sest (Moravac).
ANYWAY, WHY DOESN'T NEW YORK EXIST?
The New York of the myth doesn't exist. People
are much the same everywhere, bustling from
one place to another, in their own little
worlds at folk dancing and on the subway or in the
coffee shops. Perhaps the women are somehow better
made up, fancier dressed, perhaps those people
you talk to are more positive about New York and
issues and you than we here are about ourselves.
Generally it seems to me that New York offers nothing
that we don't have here, except for greater
quantities of all night life; but the shows on
Broadway such as "Lawrence of Arabia" and "Term of
Trial" I found in San Francisco and in a little
town of 1000 people I passed through in Nebraska.
Everywhere you see the same advertisements, bloated
blaring, blatant; everywhere the coffee shops and
restaurants are the same, except for Horn and Hardart's
Automat; everywhere big cars, candy bars, sensation
newspapers (I felt completely cut off from all the
world because of the newspaper strike, with no idea
of the news of the world or even New York --
a sensation something like on the Sierra High Trip);
New York is a place for mechanical
living, for turnstiles, guards eyeing you everywhere;
everything costs and costs wherever you go
but worst for me was the feeling of not being able
to escape the advertisements.
Perhaps I expected some kind of fairyland, which
you might agree does not exist; but I did hope for
something different, more different from what I am
familiar with. Perhaps such a hope prevents me from
getting the "feel" of the place or, indeed, anyplace.
SO WHAT?
I guess people like things and places because
theY're used to them, and not really because
there are intrinsic important differences. I
do not believe anyone could find peace in New York;
he could only find motion, and I suppose you can
take your pick. For peace I suggest Weaverville
California.
So what? So I am satisfied with my trip; I
can't say I loved it but I am sure that I
would like to return to see more; but I offer
one challenge to you all: Where can you find anything
different? OK, Africa, Asia, South America
or do I also have illusions about them?
(Written after staying for two weeks in New York
and driving back to Berkeley in 96 hours
in February, 1963)
(originally published under the name of John Fitz)